Assimilating Agra

The number one reason any traveller visits Agra is the Taj Mahal, that's beyond doubt. But read the Rough Guide to India's description of the city itself, and it's hard not to develop a sort of Agra-phobia before you even arrive there. Corrupt rickshaw drivers, over zealous touts and begging await you at every corner, at least that's the impression that I got. Maybe it's because we expected the worst that it wasn't so bad when we arrived. Or maybe we've been here long enough and gained enough confidence to handle these nuisances.

We arrived at our cheap dump of a hostel in the Taj Ganj (the backpacker area adjacent to the Taj Mahal itself) too late in the evening to do any sightseeing. From the hostel roof, we could just about make out the Taj through the dark haze at night, it's silhouetted features instantly recognisable. Even this set off a small tingle of excitement in me.


Agra Fort

I do like to save the best till last, so with three days planned in Agra the Taj could wait. The next day we visited Agra Fort, getting an excellent insight into the huge amount of history at Agra from our guide. This was were the Mughal empire was centred, before the British slowly drained their power and seized it for themselves.


Battersea Power Station

We also visited Akbar's Tomb, Akbar being the Mughal emperor I hold the most respect for, because he managed to create a peaceful unity between the main religions of India (Hinduism and Islam) during his reign (it was the British that destroyed this unity, which still hasn't been recovered to this day, the recent Mumbai attacks being an example of this). Despite over-pushy guides inside, the tomb complex itself was mightily impressive too, it's superb symmetrical design whetting my appetite for the supreme example of Mughal (and perhaps all) architecture – the Taj Mahal.



Like everyone else, I'd seen pictures of it a million times before. And like everyone else that's actually visited it, I'll tell you that it's even more impressive with your own eyes. The sheer size of it alone surprised me, and it has a presence that I've never seen from any other building. If you can bite your tongue and get over the extortionate entrance fee (750 rupees – most sights cost 100 to 200 – and until 2001 it was just 20 rupees!), it's a must see while you're in the country.

Agra is similar to Delhi in that it's overcrowded, over-polluted and sprawling, so after the Taj it was time to move on. Before we boarded the night train to Varanasi however there was one last unexpected highlight, a Hindu wedding procession, complete with unhappy looking groom (arranged marriage), running right past our hostel just as we arrived back after dinner. Gearóid in particular got carried away with the joy of it all, joining the dancing in the streets. You can see him try to escape the procession in the video below.